Tapas in the bars of the San Lorenzo quarter

We offer you a short list of the most original and curious taverns in this central Seville district.

With the arrival of the heat, the south of Spain becomes a benchmark of Spanish gastronomy every year, with simple, fresh and healthy dishes. The healthy and light Mediterranean diet finds in Andalusia a delicious range of cold dishes based on famous ‘salmorejo’ and ‘gazpacho’ (tomato soups), ‘remojón’ (orange salad with onion and cod) or ‘ajoblanco’ (chilled almond-garlic soup), among other specialties. Without a doubt, the ideal recipe to combat high Summer temperatures.

And the best way to do it is in small doses, that is, tapas. Seville is full of historical local places, some really curious where it’s worth sitting at the table. But in turn the capital has a large number of modern and elegant places where you can savor the recipes of yesteryear with a younger touch: endless salads, new versions of fried fish, exquisite desserts …

So in this post we show you a varied list of places with finger-lincking food. And not just in Summer! All of them have a high quality kitchen that, due to their experience or innovation, are highly recommended. Excellent places to take refuge from the heat in the San Lorenzo neighborhood, in shady terraces or at the end of the day.

One of the most traditional establishments in the urban (not tourist) center of Seville. Eslava is a family business that has been renewed over time. The place nowadays has a bar and a restaurant, with a very cozy interior and with high tables outside where you can enjoy some of its famous tapas in a formidable setting, next to the church of San Lorenzo. Its cuisine dresses the most traditional flavors with an attractive presentation and care of its dishes. Their ribs with honey, the Iberian cheek or the vegetable strudel are highly requested. Getting a table in this restaurant is very complicated, so a previous reservation it’s recommended. The business was awarded the Gurmé Award of the local journal ABC in 2015 for the ‘best creative cuisine restaurant’. Eslava also offers the possibility of renting apartments.

It’s an establishment with more than a century of history, located next to one of the most important figures of Seville’s past who participated in the uprising of the early 19th century: Luis Daoiz. The place combines Sevillian cuisine with the most innovative gastronomic trends. His commitment to quality local product, its location and its good atmosphere has earned him the recognition of guides such as Michelin or Le Routard. Part of its charm lies in the activity and noise that is generated mainly on the days of celebration, as it’s a regular meeting point for families and friends. Among other dishes, the tenderloin stands out in its whiskey, roquefort and Mozarabic versions; the ‘carabineros’ (Scarlet Shrimp) croquettes, as well as the cold cuts and Iberian meats. It also has an extensive wine list.

If there is a place known to all Sevillians, this is it. Such is the devotion that his parishioners dedicate to it that Casa Ricardo has become a small temple next to the parish of San Lorenzo. The foundation of the premises dates back to the end of the XIX century. Although it has changed owners over the years, the business retains its classic local bar appearance. The visit is a must even if you don’t want to eat anything. In any case, at certain times of the day, usually on Sundays after mass, it becomes an almost impossible task. And even with an extensive counter. From the entrance doors you can already glimpse what is inside. And not only good food -its ham croquettes, its fried aubergines with salmorejo or with cane honey, or its famous homemade flamenquin with Persian sauce are the downfall of more than one diner.-

It’s currently decorated with endless religious images, stamps, ornaments and all kinds of elements used during the Holy Weeks celebrated in recent decades. There are also pictures of people and events related to different brotherhoods in the city. Even the music that plays in the background are processional marches and the videos that can be seen on television are recordings of different floats and processions. And as if that weren’t enough, the days that are left before the start of Easter are written on a blackboard. You have to visit this bar in order to appreciate it, as it’s clear that all these aspects make your visit to Casa Ricardo a unique experience.

An attractive establishment in the heart of San Lorenzo. The Palo Santo Bodega (“sacred wood”) preserves the roots of Andalusian gastronomy, although it includes in its menu the most innovative elaborations, such as the bull-tail ‘bonbon’ in puff pastry, a true delight. The small business, decorated with snapshots of bullfighters and old bullfighting posters, conquers you immediately. The combinations of flavors and textures that its menu offers are really creative and impress the most demanding palate. In addition to the ‘bull-tail bonbon’, squid pancakes in their ink, mussel on toast with foie gras and its marinade or the classic ‘pavías’ (cod in batter) are also delicious. ‘Pavías’ are made differently here, with sobrasada and honey. A large number of specialities created by a team that loves good cuisine and is constantly evolving.

We didn’t want to finish the presentation of typical Sevillian taverns in the San Lorenzo neighborhood without mentioning this ‘abacería’ (traditional grocery store & bar), despite the fact that its menu is more suited to combat the cold. A business that seeks to recover a model of establishment typical of the Arab period of Isbiliya, in use until the middle of the 20th century. Small grocery stores where the customer’s purchase was accompanied by a small tasting of different products. It’s a mix of bar, restaurant and store, all in one. It can be uncomfortable due to the arrangement of its dining rooms, its bar, the innumerable articles scattered everywhere, boxes, utensils, chairs and tables, but it’s undoubtedly a good part of its charm. In any case, the feeling when going out is that you eat exceptionally well, so the drawbacks of a small space are immediately forgotten.

Its store with traditional and high-quality products, its high-quality home cooking and its familiar treatment make the customer feel immediately at home. A place that differs from the rest as soon as you enter, since both the Sevillian and the outsider recognize it as authentic. It could be said that they are experts in scrambled eggs and specialists in any dish, like ‘morcilla’ (liver sausages), ‘payoyo’ cheeses, ‘montaditos de pringá’ (stewed pork sandwiches), delicious tenderloins with salt or stew of beans for when the cold weather arrives.